Stock and Bone Gravies

Concentrated Gravy Base to Freeze

Brown stock reduced right down to a syrupy glace, frozen in cubes, so a proper gravy is ten minutes away any night of the week.

  • Contains meat
  • Gluten free
  • Dairy free
  • make ahead
  • freezer
  • glace de viande
  • batch cooking
  • beef
Illustration of Concentrated Gravy Base to Freeze
Prep
20 min
Cook
10 hrs
Total
10 hr 20 min
Serves
24
Difficulty
Hard

This is the most useful thing in this whole category. You do the long work once, reduce the stock to about a tenth of its volume and freeze it in an ice cube tray. From then on a single cube plus hot water and a whisk gives you a gravy better than anything from a jar, in the time it takes the kettle to boil.

Ingredients

Makes about 350ml of glace, which is roughly 24 cubes and 24 servings of gravy

Scale

Kit

  • Roasting tin
  • Stockpot
  • Fine sieve
  • Wide shallow pan
  • Small saucepan
  • Ice cube tray

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 220C fan (240C conventional, gas 9). Oil the bones and roast for an hour across two tins, adding the vegetables and tomato purée for the last 20 minutes, until everything is dark and the tins are heavily glazed.

  2. Move to a stockpot, deglaze both tins with water and add that in, then cover with 6 litres of cold water. Bring up slowly, skim thoroughly, add the aromatics and simmer at a bare tremble for 8 hours.

  3. Strain, chill and lift off every scrap of fat. Fat does not reduce down, it just sits there and will go rancid in the freezer, so be ruthless.

  4. Pour the defatted stock into your widest shallow pan and reduce at a steady simmer. You are going from roughly 4 litres down to about 350ml, which is a reduction of more than ten to one, so allow 3 hours and get on with something else nearby.

  5. As the volume drops, move it into progressively smaller pans. A litre of liquid in a huge pan will scorch round the edges, and transferring down keeps the depth sensible.

  6. In the last half hour watch it constantly and stir round the base. The sugars are now concentrated and it will catch and burn in seconds if you look away. Drop the heat right down as it thickens.

  7. You are finished when it is the texture of warm treacle and coats a spoon in a thick opaque layer. A spoonful dropped on a cold saucer should set to a firm rubbery blob within a minute.

  8. Cool it, then pour into an ice cube tray, about 15ml a cube, and freeze. Once solid, pop them into a labelled bag. To make gravy, drop one cube into 150ml of boiling water, whisk until dissolved, season and serve, or use two cubes for something more intense.

Tips worth knowing

  • Absolutely no salt anywhere in this recipe. You are concentrating the liquid tenfold and any salt added early will make the finished glace inedible.
  • Change down pan sizes as you go. It is the single best trick for reducing without scorching.
  • One cube also transforms a jar of shop gravy, a stew, a shepherd's pie or a pan sauce. It is not just for gravy.
  • If you overshoot and it goes solid in the pan, add a splash of hot water and whisk it back. As long as it has not burnt it is recoverable.

Change it up

  • Make the same thing with roasted chicken wings and backs for a poultry glace, which reduces faster because the stock is lighter.
  • Stop the reduction earlier, at around 700ml, for a lighter demi-glace style base that needs less water when you use it.
  • Add a bundle of thyme, a head of garlic and a strip of orange peel to the final reduction for a flavoured glace for game.

Keeping and reheating

Frozen cubes keep a year with no loss of quality. In the fridge the glace keeps a month as a solid block because it is so concentrated. Never store it with fat left in it.

Questions people ask

What is glace de viande?

It is brown stock reduced by around ninety per cent until it is a thick syrup that sets solid when cold. Classical kitchens used it as a flavour concentrate to enrich sauces. It is essentially a homemade stock cube, except made of nothing but bones, vegetables and time.

How much water do I add to one gravy cube?

Start with 150ml of boiling water to one 15ml cube and taste. That gives a light gravy. Two cubes to 200ml gives something much closer to a restaurant sauce. Season with salt at that point, never before.

Why must I not salt a reduction?

Because salt does not evaporate. If you season a stock at four litres and then reduce it to 350ml, the salt concentration goes up more than ten times over and the result will be undrinkable. Always season the finished gravy, not the base.