Merlot and Mushroom Gravy
Soft, plummy Merlot reduced with two kinds of mushroom into a thick, earthy gravy that works for beef and just as well without meat.
- Contains meat
- Merlot
- mushroom
- beef
- earthy
- Prep
- 15 min
- Cook
- 30 min
- Total
- 45 min
- Serves
- 6
- Difficulty
- Easy
Merlot is the gentlest of the big reds, low in tannin and full of plum and blackberry, which means it needs less reduction than a Cabernet and does not go bitter on you. Paired with dried porcini and fresh chestnut mushrooms it makes a gravy with genuine body. It is chunky on purpose.
Ingredients
Makes about 600ml, enough for six plates
Scaled amounts are rounded to something you can actually measure. Season at the end and trust your mouth over the maths.
Kit
- Heavy saucepan
- Small bowl
- Wooden spoon
Method
Pour the boiling water over the dried porcini and leave them for fifteen minutes. Lift them out, chop them roughly and keep the soaking liquid, leaving the last spoonful behind because grit settles there.
Melt the butter in a heavy pan over a high heat and fry the chestnut mushrooms for six or seven minutes without stirring too much. Let them get some real colour, since pale steamed mushrooms give a watery gravy.
Turn the heat down, add the onion and the chopped porcini and cook for a further six minutes until the onion is soft.
Stir in the flour and thyme and cook for two minutes.
Pour in the Merlot and whisk. Boil it for six or seven minutes until reduced by about a third. Merlot is soft and low in tannin so it does not need as brutal a reduction as a Cabernet, but it still needs enough to lose the raw grape edge.
Add the reserved porcini liquid and the hot stock, then bring to a simmer.
Cook uncovered for twelve minutes, stirring now and then, until the gravy is thick and glossy and the mushrooms are properly soft.
Stir in the soy sauce, season and serve as it is, mushrooms and all.
Tips worth knowing
- Do not throw away the porcini water. It carries more flavour than the mushrooms themselves and it is the difference between a good mushroom gravy and a great one.
- Fry the fresh mushrooms in a hot pan in one layer. If you crowd them they release water and boil, and you lose the browning that gives the gravy its depth.
- For a non-alcoholic version, use 300ml of red grape juice with 1 tbsp of red wine vinegar, or simply increase the mushroom stock to 700ml and add 2 tsp of balsamic vinegar. The mushrooms carry enough flavour that this version stands up well.
- Swap the butter for olive oil and use mushroom stock and it is entirely vegan, which is unusual for a wine gravy this rich.
Change it up
- Use a mixture of wild mushrooms in place of the chestnut mushrooms in autumn for a much more aromatic gravy.
- Stir in 2 tbsp of double cream at the end for a stroganoff leaning sauce over pasta or rice.
- Add a tablespoon of brandy with the wine and reduce them together for a richer version to serve with steak.
Keeping and reheating
Four days in the fridge, three months in the freezer. It thickens a lot as it cools because of the mushrooms. Reheat with a splash of stock over a low heat.
Questions people ask
Can I use dried mushrooms only?
You can, but the texture suffers. Use 30g of dried porcini soaked in 400ml of water and add a chopped onion for body. The gravy will be intensely flavoured but thinner, so you may want an extra half tablespoon of flour.
Is Merlot good for cooking?
Very. Merlot is low in tannin and full of soft plum fruit, which means it reduces without turning bitter or drying. It is one of the more forgiving reds for anyone nervous about overdoing a reduction.
Can I make this gravy vegan?
Yes. Use olive oil instead of butter and a good mushroom or vegetable stock instead of beef. Check the wine is vegan too, since some are fined with egg white or isinglass, and most bottles now say on the back label.